The unofficial mission

Dear all, how are you? It has been a while since I last wrote but this has definitely not been because nothing has happened here. The situation in Syria changed daily work in the office; it has become calmer here since some colleagues have been send to the north of Lebanon to monitor the situation there. Of course I am very interested in getting some first hand experience from UN work in such an operation, but as an intern I am not allowed to go on an official UNHCR mission to the area for now…. Fortunately, visiting my colleagues in my own time is another matter :)

So last Saturday morning I took a bus from Beirut to Tripoli and then a small van from Tripoli to a small town in the north were I would meet my colleagues. The northern region of Lebanon is absolutely wonderful! The fields, trees, mountains and small villages spread over the hills made for a lovely view during the trip. Though I could probably have enjoyed it more if I were not squeezed in the back of the van, fearing for my life every time we balanced at the edge of the mountain roads or almost got hit by oncoming traffic while we passed by cars in front of us. But I survived. And somehow the driver had understood were I was going even though I had no clue myself. At a certain point he stopped, turned to me and told me something in Arabic. All the passengers turned around to look at me and made way so I could reach the exit. Far too happy to be leaving the bus I jumped out and only when the bus drove off - leaving me at a seemingly abandoned roundabout – I realized I had no idea were I was. Fortunately a quick phone call learned me I was at the right place, just a little too early since they were still at the borders. ‘Just walk around this sleepy town. The people are very friendly, you’ll have no troubles.’ So I did. And no troubles indeed. I may have seen ten people and four cars in the hour I spend wondering around the small houses, closed shops and sand roads. Eventually I sat down at a little brick wall and enjoyed the view and the quietness. What a change from the busy and chaotic city life of Beirut. I only heard a soft ‘buzz buzz buzz’. I took me a few minutes to realize it was my phone. When I answered my colleague yelled: ‘Don’t wait so long with answering! I thought you were kidnapped!’ So much for safety… ;)

I wish I could give you detailed reports about the work of the UNHCR in the area, the place where we stay and the people that I’ve met, but most of it is not really my story to tell. What I can tell you is that the visit to the Lebanese-Syrian borders the next morning has changed my idea of what an international border looks like… After riding a small road with too many rocks for the Jeep to go any faster than walking pace, we walked the open field until we saw two small gray houses, separated by a dirt wall of about two meters high. ‘Behold: the Lebanon-Syria border.’ My colleague told me, pointing at the dirt wall. I was a little disappointed, even though I did not really know what to expect. When we came closer I saw a trail going up the wall, and down at the other side, into Syria. Standing on the wall I saw the green top of a mosque in the distance. Behind this mosque is the infamous city of Homs. Unbelievably close and yet far enough to make it look peaceful. The dirt wall separating the villages has been created after the assassination of president Hariri in 2005, when the Syrian Army withdraw from Lebanon after years of presence. The people living there however, married people from a village just across the border, or moved there, or got a second house or a job. For them, crossing this border between the two states was as normal as it is for any other people visiting a neighboring village. Therefore, the Syrian refugees who flee the violence in their own city just go to a town a few miles further where they have family or friends. In doing so they cross the border but this is sometimes just a side issue. Some of them go back home just as easily when the situation in there home town calms down. This makes it difficult for the UNHCR to locate the people. For instance when you ask the major of a town if he hosts any refugees he can say: no we have no one here. But when you ask: do you have any families from the other village here? he might say yes. Complicated but also interesting to observe. There are also no refugee camps set up anywhere at the Lebanese-Syrian border. This is not necessary since most people are accommodated by local Lebanese families. It is probably no long-term solution, but it is preferable over big tent camps, in my opinion.

Hopefully, I will be able to go back to the North again soon. And hopefully official this time, since it was very quiet and safe there. I also very much enjoyed the beautiful nature and serenity which is hard to find in Beirut. But I am not complaining about living in the city! I love it here and surely the next three months will be as great as the previous three :)

I am looking forward to hear your thoughts and ideas about the situation in Syria. Is it an actual issue in the Dutch/European news? Much love to you all!